Gimlet at Cavendish House in Melbourne sets a top standard by not going over the top.
It presents a valuable lesson for those aspiring to open “world class” restaurants such as a recent example in Adelaide (no names no pack lunch).
Gimlet has formal white tablecloth settings around a central cocktail bar with its own vibe with seating and limited bar menu. The bar creates an extra liveliness and gives Gimlet more of a bistro feel than restaurant. “Bistro” or ”restaurant” doesn’t matter (except to the poseurs).
Gimlet (corner of Russell Street and Flinders Lane, Melbourne city) gets the essentials – food, service, setting –right. For the setting, its lighting is that subtle but alluring combo of hanging lamps that exude warmth even from the outside the building. The décor supports that striving for warmth.
The maitre d’ greets diners at the door to make sure they’re seated quickly in the bar area or at the white tablecloth seating area.
The theatre of hospitality
From there the service is professionally, perfectly timed: friendly without fawning. Different uniforms for each kind of waiting, kitchen or bar staff adds to the theatre of this restaurant. There is a sense of a hierarchy and it’s clear that everyone has been well trained, knowledgable about the food and wine and is confident in their role. The service adds to the whole experience.
Gimlet caters for the poseur factor with offerings such as Giaveri Beluga caviar at $340 or half a Southern rock lobster for $320. But the standard main courses – Rock flathead, black truffle risotto, Ravens Creek pork cutlet, Gippsland strip steak were in the $50s-$60s range.
The food had none of the trying-too-hard factor; no cuisine minceur ; no waiter interrupting the flow of the meal by explaining every component – down to the gnat’s testicle – in a tiny morsel made to look smaller on a huge plate. The key here was food thoughtfully emphasising the natural seasonal ingredients in a hearty well-prepared way. Even the Gimlet desserts – a common source of squeezing-the-margins stinginess – are a good size and inventive here.
They take their wine seriously with a well-curated list and a sommelier advising and serving wines to the diners if requested.
Gimlet has the flexible efficiency in place to serve breakfasts as well as a separate supper session. The supper session is perfect if, for example, you’ve got a restaurant near a theatre.
Accolades
2025 Wine List of the Year, Australia’s Best Restaurant Wine List (City), Victoria’s Best Wine List and the Sommelier’s Choice for Head Sommelier, Anthony Pieri (centre, middle)
And Restaurant Bar of The Year at the 2025 Australian Bar Awards.
Our visit was October 2025 and reflects the menu at that time.
Tangents & Trivia
A Gimlet a day keeps the scurvy away
It is said that the origin of the Gimlet drink was named after Rear-Admiral Sir Thomas D Gimlette, ship’s doctor to sailors between 1879 and 1913.
Before that, a Scottish surgeon, James Lind discovered that citrus prevented scurvy even though ascorbic acid (pure Vitamin C) was not yet known. In 1867, the British made it compulsory for all ships to carry citrus for daily consumption. Sailors used rum to make it palatable and officers preferred gin. Later, the citrus juice was combined with a sugar syrup to extend the life of the citrus and perhaps make it even more palatable.
It is estimated that scurvy killed two million sailors between the 15th and 18th centuries.
Smart Cooky
James Cook was the first captain to ensure his crew was scurvy free. In an era when it was normal to lose at least 50% of the crew and sometimes 100%, it is argued that Cook’s enormous achievements and discoveries were a testament to his strict diet and hygiene standards for crew and changed the course of history.
The Copely Medal
In 1776, for his work on scurvy Captain James Cook was awarded The Copley Medal; the most prestigious award of the Royal Society of the United Kingdom and the world’s oldest scientific prize.
Other recipients are, Benjamin Franklin, Adelaide’s W H Bragg, Darwin, Crick, Hawking, Florey, Einstein and the Oxford-AstraZeneca team.
Vitamin C-for-Cocktail infusion
Gimlet’s famous cocktail consists of,
45 ml Tanqueray Gin, Moscato
triple citrus cordial and Geraldton Wax.
The native shrub, Geraldton Wax has needle-like leaves and flowers which have a citrus/pine aroma used in cooking and in the case of Gimlet, cocktails.
